This summer I met a large flock of gulls (mainly herring gulls and great black-backed gulls) on the beach in Hamningberg, where they blend in perfectly with their moon-like surroundings.

It was incredible to sit and observe this man wild seabirds in their natural element, and it left me wondering how many gulls we saw that night exactly. So when I came home, I went through my pictures and counted.

White-tailed Eagle in Finnmark, Norway's most northern region. There's still brown on the tail feathers, so this individual isn't fully adult yet.

White-tailed Eagle (Havørn or sea eagle in Norwegian), on the lookout for a prey, by a bird cliff in Finnmark. This was done during a bird watching trip with BirdSafari AS in Gjesvær, Nordkapp.

Herring gull in flight. This picture was taken at a remote beach in Varanger, in the middle of the night during midnight sun season, even though the sun was blocked by clouds.

Part of a colony of thoudands of gulls, that spent their night on this beach in Hamningberg in Finnmark.

They blend in so well with their environment here as well. The rocks are different shades of gray, with some brown mosses and lichen growing on them and big white spots of bird droppings. Which is the perfect camouflage for seabirds that are white/gray as adults and beige/brown/white/gray as juveniles.

At first we thought the gulls were only on the grass, but when using the binoculars to look at the rocks on the beach in the background, we realized they were completely covered in gulls as well.

This was an impressive sight!

A large flock of gulls follows whales along the coastline in Hamningberg. Whales are often followed by seabirds who are looking to snatch some fish.

Thousands of gulls spent the night along these rocky beaches in Hamningberg (Båtsfjord municipality in Finnmark).

Most of them were young (< 4 years) herring gulls and great black-backed gulls, and at sea we also observed kittiwakes and adult herring gulls following the whales.

A large flock of gulls spent the night along these rocky beaches in Hamningberg (Båtsfjord municipality in Finnmark).

Most of them were young (< 4 years) herring gulls and great black-backed gulls, and at sea we also observed kittiwakes and adult herring gulls following the whales.

Thousands of gulls spent the night along these rocky beaches in Hamningberg (Båtsfjord municipality in Finnmark).

Most of them were young (< 4 years) herring gulls and great black-backed gulls, and at sea we also observed kittiwakes and adult herring gulls following the whales.

A large flock of gulls spent the night along these rocky beaches in Hamningberg (Båtsfjord municipality in Finnmark).

Most of them were young (< 4 years) herring gulls and great black-backed gulls, and at sea we also observed kittiwakes and adult herring gulls following the whales.

Thousands of gulls spent the night along these rocky beaches in Hamningberg (Båtsfjord municipality in Finnmark).

Most of them were young (< 4 years) herring gulls and great black-backed gulls, and at sea we also observed kittiwakes and adult herring gulls following the whales.

Thousands of gulls spent the night along these rocky beaches in Hamningberg (Båtsfjord municipality in Finnmark).

Most of them were young (< 4 years) herring gulls and great black-backed gulls, and at sea we also observed kittiwakes and adult herring gulls following the whales.

A young kittiwake on a warm summer day in Vardø, northern-most Norway.

Here kittiwakes (rissa tridactyla) have started breeding in the center of town, where they are protected from the eagles in the area. In order to avoid the kittiwakes making nests on people's houses, kittiwake hotels where they can nest in peace were built in several locations.

This family was nesting on an abandoned building near one of the kittiwake hotels, and all members were sitting beak open, cooling down from the temperatures.

Picture taken from a safe distance, with telezoom lens, and further cropped in post production, so no chicks were disturbed.

Arctic tern flying around in its nesting area somewhere in Vardø, on the Varanger peninsula in Finnmark, northern Norway. These terns are fierce nest defenders, that do not shy away from a fight. I was observing them from a safe distance, on a parking lot, when two of them started diving for my head, which was a good sign that it was time to leave the terns be and head back to the car.

Group of common murres at Hornøya.

Murres are very social auks, that breed as tight as 20 pairs (40 individuals) per square meter. Being so close together offers better protection to the eggs and chicks, since neighbors can assist in fighting off predators.

Being this tight to your neighbor is guaranteed to to cause some commotion, and we observed many murres both cozing up to their neighbors, and getting into friendly arguments with them.

Atlantic puffin at Hornøya.

Bridled common murre portrait, taken at Hornøya (in Finnmark, Norway). In Norwegian this variation of murre is often called a "ringvi", merging the words "ring" and "lomvi" (murre).

The birds at Hornøya are not shy, and often running over the path and between people at Hornøya, actively checking out what the humans are up to. This one was standing a few meters away from me, overlooking the ocean.

This picture is available as a print, notebook, or mug.

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Common murre overlooking the sea.

Black-legged kittiwake sitting on top of one of the Kittiwake hotels in Vardø.

Here the kittiwakes have more and more moved from the bird cliffs into town, so locals built kittiwake hotels (breeding platforms) so they would nest away from the houses.

It was really nice to see so many healthy kittiwakes breeding in those boxes this year, especially after a catastrophic year with avian flu in 2023.

Common murre at Hornøya.

Common murre at Hornøya (northern Norway). Here around 100,000 seabirds breed each summer season, and the murres are the most numerous species on the island, with over 15,000 breeding pairs.

This individual was hanging out with the shags, and taking a peek from behind a rock right next to the shoreline.

Atlantic puffin at Hornøya.

European shag (Gulosus aristotelis, formerly kown as Phalacrocorax aristotelis) proudly walking back to the nest with some very special stick: the skeleton of another shag.

We observed many shags returning back to their partner with new nest material for home renovations, which typically consited of kelp or similar, but this one really brought back the most special decoration. They were not the only one finding the remains of their neighbor (or love rival?) acceptable nest building material, we saw at least one other shag on a nest with bones woven into it.

Common murres creating a new generation while their friends and family watch. Murres nest very close to eachother, which offers protection from predators, and it's often family that they nest next to. No privacy at all.

European shag (Gulosus aristotelis, formerly kown as Phalacrocorax aristotelis) proudly walking back to the nest with some very special stick: the skeleton of another shag.

We observed many shags returning back to their partner with new nest material for home renovations, which typically consited of kelp or similar, but this one really brought back the most special decoration. They were not the only one finding the remains of their neighbor (or love rival?) acceptable nest building material, we saw at least one other shag on a nest with bones woven into it.

Portrait of a black-legged kittiwake, taken in the habor in Vardø (Finnmark, Norway), after our visit to Hornøya.

Second year kittiwake, photographed at Hornøya, an island which around a hundered thousand seabirds call home.

Black-legged kittiwake, photographed in Varanger, northern Norway.

Kittiwakes are so cute 🤍 Unfortunately, they have it really tough these days. Overfishing, climate change and human activity threaten their food and habitat, and last year they had a disastrous bird flu outbreak. Additionally, in Norway the white-tailed eagle conservation has been so successful that the eagles are now so plentiful that the kittiwakes are being chased away from their cliffs, and into the coastal towns, like this one.

Female red-necked phalarope (svømmesnipe), photographed in Varanger (Finnmark, Norway) at night under the midnight sun in June.

This is a female, which we can tell because of the color of the plumage, which is more saturated and higher in contrast than the male's feathers. The females are more grey and have a more defined red/orange neck, whereas the males are more brown and dull in color.

Male ruff (Calidris pugnax; brushane), photographed in Vadsø during the summer of 2024.

Ruffs are a type of wader, recognized by the classy and dramatic plummage of the males, who have big and colorful neck feathers.

They breed in wetlands in the mountains and along the coast, with their summer habitat stretching from Norway to the eastern-most part of Russia/Siberia. During winter, they migrate to Africa, south of the Sahara.

Male ruff (Calidris pugnax; brushane), photographed in Vadsø during the summer of 2024.

Ruffs are a type of wader, recognized by the classy and dramatic plummage of the males, who have big and colorful neck feathers.

They breed in wetlands in the mountains and along the coast, with their summer habitat stretching from Norway to the eastern-most part of Russia/Siberia. During winter, they migrate to Africa, south of the Sahara.

Male ruff (Calidris pugnax; brushane), photographed in Vadsø during the summer of 2024.

Ruffs are a type of wader, recognized by the classy and dramatic plummage of the males, who have big and colorful neck feathers.

They breed in wetlands in the mountains and along the coast, with their summer habitat stretching from Norway to the eastern-most part of Russia/Siberia. During winter, they migrate to Africa, south of the Sahara.

Common murre photographed at Hornøya, an island in the northernmost and easternmost part of Norway.

Murres spend the majority of their life at sea, and only come on land to breed, which happens on steep seaside cliffs like these. This picture was taken at the start of April, when the seabirds had just returned to their nesting grounds.

This is the bridled version, in Norwegian also called "ringvi" (ring-lomvi), which has a white circle around the eyes that makes them look as if they're wearing glasses.

I thought this one individual looked particularly cute, checking me out from behind a rock. They're curious and very lively and social birds, it's so fun to observe.

When birds of prey fly past, all the auks instantly abandon their cliff, leading to a lot of chaotic sights like this one.

While I was on the island, the birds on the cliff flew off like this several times. And while it looked and sounded very chaotic (I mean, it's literally thousands of seabirds shouting and flying away in the sme direction, of course it's chaotic), they did seem quite synchronized and disciplined, and collisions are rare.

Common murre photographed at Hornøya, April 2024.

I was taking a picture of this family of common murres/common guillemots (Uria aalge) posing while more auks flew by at Hornøya, when a European Shag (Phalacrocorax aristotelis) crashlanded in the snow right in front of me, creating this dramatic portrait.

Picture taken at Hornøya, by Vardø in the north of Norway.

Purple sandpiper foraging for food along the coast by Nesseby in northern Norway.

When I realized how beautifully blue-purple the light became around sunset, I knew I had to head to a beach and find some purple sandpipers to photograph and photograph them in "their" light.

In order to avoid the kittiwakes nesting on people's homes and offer the kittiwakes a safe breeding ground, people in the "kittiwake towns" built hotels for their kittiwakes. This gives them an easy but controlled space to nest.

Two common murres preening eachother at Hornøya, a bird cliff in northern Norway. These are the bridled variation (also called "ringvi" in Norwegian), which have a white stripe around the eyes resembling glasses.

Bridled common murres are the same species (Uria aalge). The glasses are just a genetic variation, and are more common in northern regions.

Kittiwake about to land on a platform at the kittiwake hotel in Kiberg, Vardø kommune (Varanger/Finnmark, northern Norway). Here kittiwakes are starting to make their nests in the cities, rather than the nearby birdcliffs, where they find protection from predators like white-tailed eagles.

In order to avoid the kittiwakes nesting on people's homes and offer the kittiwakes a safe breeding ground, people in the "kittiwake towns" built hotels for their kittiwakes. This gives them an easy but controlled space to nest.

Kittiwake flying past a red wooden building, somewhere in Vardø municipality in Varanger (Finnmark, northernmost Norway).

I took this picture in the spring of '24 at one of the "kittiwake hotels" in Vardø.

Here kittiwakes have taken over the town, seeking shelter from the white-tailed eagles that roam the coastline, and kittiwake hotels (boxes stacked on top of eachother) have been built to discourage the kittiwakes from building their nests on the houses.

Two common murres returning to the cliff from an afternoon of fishing at sea.

Two razorbills cuddling together in the snow at Hornøya (Vardø, Finnmark), in April 2024, at the start of breeding season.

Razorbills are socially monogamous, like most seabirds, and return to the same nesting spot with the same partner each year. They mate for life, but divorces do happen, for example if one of them proves to be a bad parent, and they re-pair after their partner dies.

These two were enjoying some alone time, something that must be rare at crowded cliffs like this, preening eachother while enjoying the afternoon sun in the snow.

I spotted these two razorbills rubbing their beaks and heads together, cuddling surrounded by snow. I found a pile of snow in the foreground to position myself behind, which let me create the white haze in the foreground and also gave our lovebirds some space.

Razorbills, just like most seabirds, are monogamous and mate for life, returning to the same nest and partner each year.

When the white-tailed eagle gets observed at the cliff, the auks flee the scene and thousands of seabirds fill the sky.

These two razorbills, positioned on a rock below the bird cliff felt safe from the threat and remained in place, vigilantly keeping an eye on the activity above them in the sky.

During my time at Hornøya during spring 2024, I saw the murres, razorbills, puffins, and kittiwakes fly off in a panic many times, startled by the predators.

Two razorbills cuddling together in the snow at Hornøya (Vardø, Finnmark), in April 2024, at the start of breeding season.

Razorbills are socially monogamous, like most seabirds, and return to the same nesting spot with the same partner each year. They mate for life, but divorces do happen, for example if one of them proves to be a bad parent, and they re-pair after their partner dies.

These two were enjoying some alone time, something that must be rare at crowded cliffs like this, preening eachother while enjoying the afternoon sun in the snow.

Cuddling razorbills (Alca torda), photographed at Hornøya in the spring of 2024.

Razorbills are socially monogamous. They'll pick a partner and stick with them for life, but, just like amongst humans, divorces may happen.

Razorbills (Alca torda) at Hornøya.

The razorbill on the left is actually just making a landing. But the postures and facial expressions of all of them made it seem as if he clumsely fell off the cliff while his friends were laughing at him.

It's quite incredible that they don't have constant collisions, because as soon as predators are observed thousands of seabirds synchronously abandon the cliff.

When birds of prey are observed around the bird cliff at Hornøya, most of the auks promptly abandon their nesting grounds, flying out to the open sea and counting on the safety of being in a larger flock.

But not this one bridled common murre. While all of the neighbors fled the white-tailed eagle, this individual decided to proudly fly back to the cliff with a meal in the beak. Maybe supplying their partner on the nest with an emergency snack?

European shag preening them self at Hornøya. The shags easily became one of my favorite seabirds after this summer, they have so much personality.

Young European Shag at Hornøya, photographed in April 2024. On my way off the island, right next to the boat pickup, I met a group of sunbathing young shags.

They're so cute, and have such fun facial expressions. Meeting them up close at Hornøya definitely made me appreciate shags more.

Their clumsy movements, interesting interactions, and dinosaur-like sounds make them a very exciting bird to observe. Murres, razorbills, and puffins may be the Hornøya birds people are most drawn to due to their stunning visuals, when it comes to behavior and personality, the shags are the clear winners.

Purple sandpiper foraging for food along the coast by Nesseby in northern Norway.

The tides are very noticeable at this beach, and many waders can be found following the water. During winter and spring, that's mainly purple sandpipers, which are tough enough to overwinter in the north of Norway as well.

Purple sandpiper foraging for food along the coast by Nesseby in northern Norway.

The tides are very noticeable at this beach, and many waders can be found following the water. During winter and spring, that's mainly purple sandpipers, which are tough enough to overwinter in the north of Norway as well.

Purple sandpiper foraging for food along the coast by Nesseby in northern Norway.

The tides are very noticeable at this beach, and many waders can be found following the water. During winter and spring, that's mainly purple sandpipers, which are tough enough to overwinter in the north of Norway as well.

Purple sandpiper foraging for food along the coast by Nesseby in northern Norway.

The tides are very noticeable at this beach, and many waders can be found following the water. During winter and spring, that's mainly purple sandpipers, which are tough enough to overwinter in the north of Norway as well.

Old wooden shed sonewhere in Porsanger municipality (northern Norway), during the last hike of our trip in the summer of 2023. We felt so sad to have to return back south, but got to say goodbye to the region with one last gorgeous hike during blue hour.

It's a simple pictures, but it's one of my favorites from that trip.

White-tailed Eagle (Havørn or sea eagle in Norwegian), on the lookout for a prey, by a bird cliff in Finnmark. The eagle blends in very well with the rocky landscape in the North, and this individual is a great example of the camouflage.

White-tailed Eagle (Havørn or sea eagle in Norwegian), on the lookout for a prey, by a bird cliff in Finnmark.